Absinthe

Absinthe is, without a doubt, the most misunderstood spirit of all time. Blamed for hallucinations, psychosis, and even murder, absinthe is a liquor that is steeped in folklore and fable. One of the most prevalent myths about absinthe is that it possess psychedelic properties, which is completely untrue. Absinthe does not cause hallucinations nor does it induce psychosis. These myths and others surrounding the emerald hued spirit are results of a smear campaign that began at the turn of the twentieth century as well as Hollywood's poor portrayal of the spirit in movies such as Moulin Rouge.

Absinthe is a very strong spirit, typically around 72% (144 proof), or 72 degrees as it's referred to in absinthe circles. However the alcohol content varies from producer to producer with some being stronger and others not so strong. The primary flavoring agents are grand wormwood, green fennel, and green anise but as with gin, there are typically many other herbs and flavoring agents added to absinthe in its distillation process. When adding cold water to absinthe its color changes from a deep emerald green to a pale and opaque liquid. This famous transformation which a hallmark of good absinthe is called the “louche” and it's caused by the green fennel.

Absinthe was created in the eighteenth century by a French doctor named Pierre Ordinaire who was practicing medicine in Switzerland at the time. In 1792, Ordinaire distilled wormwood along with other medicinal herbs into a neutral grain spirit in order to create a tonic remedy for his patients. Five years later in 1797, his recipe was purchased by Major Dubied and he began commercial distillation of the spirit with his son-in-law Henri-Louis Pernod. They began their production at a small distillery in Val-de-Tavers, Switzerland and after much success moved production to Pontarlier, France.

During the 1850's, absinthe saw a huge growth in it's popularity driven by it's acceptance, and preference by the French aristocracy as well as the bohemian set. Dubbed “The Green Fairy”, it was lauded by many famous artists, writers, and poets. By the 1870's, absinthe had reached an epic level of popularity in part thanks to a root blight that affected the grape vines from which wine grapes were grown. The lack of wine helped to greatly increase absinthe's presence in day to day life. Because absinthe is so high in proof it was used by the working class to purify their water simply by adding an ounce or two to their drinking water. By 1910, absinthe consumption across Europe had reached between 34-38 million liters per year.

Unfortunately for the beloved spirit, it was absinthe's popularity that became it's undoing. By the early 1900's the french wine houses had recovered from the devastation caused by the root blight that had decimated their fields just a few decades prior. These houses found themselves in direct competition with the green herbal liquor and they began a smear campaign against absinthe.

The anti-absinthe faction was fueled by a court case from 1905 in which a French vineyard worker named Jean Lanfray had murdered his pregnant wife in a drunken rage. His lawyers mounted a defense that blamed absinthe for Lanfay's behavior. Stating to the court that the liquor drove him temporarily mad which lead to the murder of his wife and unborn child. However, for historical accurancy it should be noted that Lanfray only consumed two glasses of absinthe along with a liter of wine, cognac, and coffee spiked with brandy before committing his heinous act.

This defense mounted by Lanfray's lawyers worked and while he was found guilty of the crime, he was spared from capital punishment. He was sentenced to 30 years in prison instead of execution and was found in his cell three days later having hanged himself. News of the trial and Lanfary's defense quickly spread throughout Europe and a petition with over 82,000 signatures was collected calling for the ban of absinthe. Subsequently the Netherlands banned absinthe in 1909, Switzerland and France followed suit in 1910 and 1914 respectively. The United States did not banned absinthe directly but in 1912 absinthe became prohibited from being imported into the US.

In 2006, with the help of American chemist Ted Breaux (who distills the Jade line of absinthes in the Pontarlier, France), absinthe once again became legal for distillation and consumption in Europe and was eligible for import into the United States. Since that time, absinthe has been slowly and steadily gaining popularity throughout both Europe and the United States.

Traditionally absinthe is prepared by diluting 1 part absinthe with 3-5 parts ice cold water depending upon the drinker's preference. When preparing absinthe the water should be poured as slow as possible. This allows the absinthe to open or bloom. You will be rewarded for your patience if you pour your water slowly. Most absinthe drinkers do not add sugar to their drink, finding the herbal liquor already sweet, but it is traditional for those with a sweet tooth to add sugar. This is done by placing a special slotted absinthe spoon over the top of the glass and placing a sugar cube on the spoon.

A common myth is that the sugar cube should be lit on fire. This should NEVER be done. It destroys the absinthe causing acrid and bitter flavors. This unfortunate ritual was created in Eastern Europe where absinthe was never banned. Cheap knockoff absinthes dubbed “Czech-sinthe” used this technique to create a mystique around absinthe as a marketing ploy.

Absinthe also makes a great ingredient in cocktails. Examples would include the Sazerac and the Corpse Reviver #2. When used creatively absinthe is a great addition to cocktails. It's one of our favorite ingredients and we highly recommend experimenting with this amazing spirit.